7 addresses keeping rue du Vertbois alive

You probably remember the La Jeune Rue affair, that XXL scam recently explored in a documentary on Canal+, which we recommended you watch earlier. Twelve years after the abrupt abandonment of the project that aimed to turn it into the gastronomic heart of Paris, what remains of rue du Vertbois ? We went back to take stock of the situation and, spoiler alert : most of the premises are still closed, as if the area hasn’t yet had time to heal. However, a few addresses have given us hope that it could once again become a destination of interest. Mythical and steadfast tables, a cutting-edge bookstore, a decidedly fashion-forward hair salon or a boutique prized during fashion week : zoom in on 7 beating hearts we love in the Haut-Marais.

At the crossroads of rue Volta and rue du Vertbois, Anahi needs no introduction. This worldly restaurant by Riccardo Giraudi, where the lady of the house, Carmina, has managed to turn a former butcher’s shop into a hotspot attracting all of Paris’s fashion crowd. Between its intimate décor, candlelight, cozy atmosphere and the Argentine cuisine of Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco, it’s impossible not to fall under its spell. On the menu : thin onion tart with smoked butter (€19), sea bream ceviche with truffle cream (€29), gambas al ajillo (€39) or white fish papillote with citrus (€29).
The extra touch : exceptional work on meat, an obsession for Riccardo – also known as Beefboy for importing luxury meats into Europe – and for Mauro. Choose from rib-eye heart, Tomahawk, Angus picanha, wagyu hanger steak or filet mignon.

Anahi, 49 rue Volta, Paris 3e. 01 83 81 38 00. Open Wednesday to Sunday evenings.

This is the hangout for slightly edgy intellectuals in the Marais. Originally, Motto is a Berlin-based publisher and bookseller whose founder traveled across Europe collecting and distributing rare magazines and specialized publications. In its rue du Vertbois shop, you’ll find books as well as abstract fiction, political essays and art magazines. A true Ali Baba’s cave where you’ll always uncover curiosities – and where it’s best to come with a theme in mind… so the team can guide you as closely as possible to your idea ! On our last visit, we fell for the new vinyl The Internet Will Break My Heart by Chris Imler.
The extra touch : in its vaulted basement cellar, the Motto team regularly hosts events and concerts, with dates announced on Instagram.
Motto Paris, 38 rue du Vertbois, Paris 3e.  Open Tuesday to Sunday from 12 p.m. to 8 p.m.

In the Haut-Marais, Café Kitsuné on rue du Vertbois regularly hosts all kinds of pop-ups, drawing in the fashion crowd during fashion week. At this pocket-sized counter, you can enjoy on site or to go a pistachio latte (€7), a flat white or, in limited edition, lattes created in collaboration with Finnish ceramicist Iittala, whose cups are available for sale (€30) : sakura, matcha or black sesame (€6). Special mention for sweet treats: fox shortbread (€4), chocolate cookie (€4.50), matcha financier (€5) and carrot cake (€6).
The extra touch : super-cute merch that makes you want to dress Café Kitsuné from head to toe, with bottles and tote bags.

Café Kitsuné Vertbois, 30 rue du Vertbois, Paris 3e. 01 81 69 59 64. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Stylish, ultra-comfortable clothing – what more could you ask for ? Kwame Adusei’s wardrobe, already a hit in Los Angeles, offers a fit that goes beyond preconceived ideas about cuts, materials and gender. In her lovely boutique, buzzing during fashion weeks (especially just after her recent show), you try on pieces clearly designed by a true expert in pattern-making, construction and design. Among our favorites from the current collection : a sexy black mesh dress (€400), a cotton cardigan with shoulder pads (€300), a white button-down dress (€270) or the perfect tennis-stripe bermuda shorts (€350).
The extra touch : whether you’re slim, tall, curvy or petite, Kwame Adusei’s cuts always give a surprisingly flattering, badass look.

Kwame Adusei, 15 rue du Vertbois, Paris 3e. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 1 p.m. to 7 p.m.
© @zove_paris

Recently acquired by LVMH, this highly sought-after address is a true institution. In this bistro, unchanged for a century with its dark wood and red-checked tablecloths, stars from all over the world and undercover political figures rub shoulders. No website, reservations by phone only, zero communication : L’Ami Louis’s celebrity reputation speaks for itself. On the menu : the cult Burgundy snails (€52 per dozen), foie gras from the Landes (€72), roast chicken for two (€125), duck confit (€68) or a rum baba (€48) – unapologetically French feasts that are real curiosities for foreign guests.
The extra touch : in the evening, it’s impossible not to run into a star. Among the famous faces spotted over the years : Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston (#nostalgia), Rosalia, Robert Pattinson, Keanu Reeves, as well as the Clinton and Chirac couples, who immortalized their dinners here.

Chez L’Ami Louis, 32 rue du Vertbois, Paris 3e. 01 48 87 77 48. Open Wednesday to Sunday, lunch and dinner.

The freedom of the 1980s, the sex appeal of the 2000s and the expertise of a scissor virtuoso: that’s the promise of Yumi Studio, a pop and colorful hair salon that makes you want to change your look and go for a statement cut. Yumi advises her clients and guides them toward new looks that are both flattering and bold, from the mullet to the very trendy wolf cut, a deconstructed bob or simply a seductive long layered cut. Price-wise : €200 for a sun-kissed balayage on long hair, €98 for a transformational haircut or from €140 for a botox treatment.
The extra touch : it’s time to go for bangs ! Baby bangs, wispy, blunt, curtain bangs… The stylist’s philosophy is that it only takes a tiny lock of hair to change everything.

Yumistudio, 22 rue du Vertbois, Paris 3e. 06 87 99 86 62. Open Mondays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Thursdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Appointments via planity.com.

This is the kind of pocket-sized counter we love to stop by for a quick takeaway treat. Especially when it’s a Vietnamese street-food spot serving some of the best banh mi in Paris, nestled in a divine traditional baguette ! LOAF’s family recipes are well worth the visit : we love the signature Twist’n Beef sandwich with lemongrass-marinated sirloin, cooked to order, also available as a bowl with fragrant rice. Also great : pork and cumin, five-spice duck, dab fillet with dill and, for the veggie team, marinated mushrooms with combava sauce or pan-fried tofu with orange juice.
The extra touch : on Fridays, regulars rush in to grab the signature bao.

Loaf Banh mi Corner, 4 rue du Vertbois, Paris 3e. 06 65 69 61 78. Open Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Also discover Our favorite addresses in the Marais and Our favourite addresses around rue du bac area