Remember his name: Irwin Durand. The grandson of a pastry chef and a prodigy trained at L’Atelier Robuchon and La Monnaie de Paris, Durand has already earned Michelin stars for Alan Geaam’s restaurant and Guy Savoy’s Chiberta, where he worked under his mentor. With such an impressive track record, his newly opened restaurant Irwin, tucked away in a quiet corner of Paris’s 8th arrondissement, is bound to pique the interest of the Michelin Guide.
A Bold Culinary Vision
While the minimalist decor may still be finding its identity, Irwin is already drawing local gourmets thanks to its ever-evolving tasting menus—offered in five or nine “paths”, as Durand prefers to call them. Each journey includes a balance of vegetables, fish, meat, and two desserts, offering a complete sensory experience.
On the evening of our visit, we began with a series of amuse-bouches followed by a standout starter: roasted green asparagus from Provence served with a thyme-infused mayonnaise, confit egg yolk, grapefruit jelly, and a juniper berry sabayon.
Next came a Mediterranean red mullet delicately wrapped in a translucent seaweed veil, paired with a beautiful artichoke tartlet, followed by veal sweetbreads prepared two ways—poached in milk then roasted in herb butter—served with fava beans, green peas, caramelized onions, and a rich veal jus. Simply flawless.
High-Flying Desserts
A special mention goes to Tessa Ponzo, the exceptionally talented and charming pastry chef, who treats her vanilla pods like rare gems. Her first dessert—a visually striking white monochrome composition—plays on lactic notes with fermented milk chantilly, sage-infused raw cream, sage yogurt ice cream, a grilled almond milk veil, and a crispy milk skin.
The second dessert, indulgent and nostalgic, is pure comfort: miso cream, gavotte biscuit, pompona vanilla ice cream, coconut sugar crumble, hazelnut praline with Tanzanian smoked vanilla, and a luscious dulce de leche sauce.
Originally from the Drôme region, Ponzo doesn’t let guests leave without a final sweet surprise: Nyons olive bites enhancing a strawberry compote and rosemary-infused whipped cream. A rising star you’ll definitely want to keep on your radar.
Open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner
© Florian Domergue / PAUSECOM
Also discover Paris’s chic outdoor dinners this summer and the new Italian brunch at the Bvlgari Hotel.
