Some dinners are destined to stay with you forever. In the eyes of seasoned insiders, the new fine-dining restaurant at the Plaza Athénée ranks among the most successful comebacks of recent years. It is impossible not to mention the departure of its former chef, Jean Imbert, when explaining the need for a fresh start, fuelled by exhilarating energy and a truly original concept. Enter La Grande Table, ushering in a new era as it reclaims its glorious past… and winning us over completely.
Little and Grand Touches
To steer this luxurious locomotive firmly onto the tracks of modernity, Restaurant Director Denis Courtiade and his deputy Anna Crupano, both every bit as charming as you would expect, have come up with the idea of turning dinner into a full-blown theatrical experience. Much like at the Palace of Versailles, which inevitably springs to mind amid all the gilding, mirrors and giant chandeliers, there is never a dull moment around this grand marble table.
The presentation and carving of pâté en croûte, coarse salt tucked away in its tiny pot, exceptional silverware and tableware that change throughout the meal without ever looking alike, lids being lifted all around, langoustines cooked before your eyes, flambéing, caviar service, lights dimming, a glass curtain opening onto pastry chefs putting the finishing touches to desserts… Dinner unfolds through a succession of fascinating surprises, right up to a brilliant one we would rather keep under wraps, waiting to be discovered just before dessert. An added bonus: gifts to take home and keep the pleasure going over the following days.
On the Road to the Stars
And what about the food? La Grande Table brings together the talents of the palace’s executive chef, Jocelyn Herland, and Anthony di Prospero for the savoury courses, while pastry chef Angelo Musa works his magic when dessert time comes around. The six-course menu (€295) unfolds with remarkable finesse, from Escoffier soup to brioche topped with caviar, alongside the picture-perfect pâté en croûte, sea bass with yellow wine sabayon and walnuts, sweetbreads and pigeon with dark berries. Every bite deserves your full attention, revealing layer upon layer of detail, from the silky sauce to the understated condiment and the poetry of the accompaniments: morel mushroom rigatoni and a vegetable composition worthy of a master painting.
The meal ends on the delicate note of fig, transformed into sorbet, roasted with red wine and spices, then tucked into its own purse-shaped pastry or worked into a creation so intricate it resembles a leaf. Alternatively, opt for “La part des anges esprit vanille” and its accompaniments, including a five-star take on rice pudding. Can it get any better? For those looking to enjoy such grandeur on a slightly smaller budget, the lunch menu is available for €190. Unforgettable, we told you!
Open for lunch on Saturdays and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. Bookings online.
© Mark Read - Marie Flament
Discover also the return of La Table Ruinart at Cheval Blanc Paris and the exclusive Spirits Club at Minuit Express bar.
