Dive into the Fantastic World of Paolo Roversi at Palais Galliera

Tami, Dior AH 1949, Paris, 2016 © Paolo Roversi - Lida et Alexandra, Alberta Ferretti, Paris, 1998 © Paolo Roversi - Sihana Shalaj, Comme des Garçons, Paris, 2023 © Paolo Roversi

You've undoubtedly caught sight of one of Paolo Roversi's incredible fashion portraits, the Italian photographer who, for nearly 50 years, has collaborated with the greatest top models, fashion magazines, and designers. Palais Galliera unveils a sublime monograph dedicated to this photographic genius: a first in France, immersing visitors in his fantastical universe.

 

Iconic shots exhibited for the first time

Since his early days, Paolo Roversi has kept all his photographs, even the failed ones. Sylvie Lécallier, the exhibition curator, has selected 140 works from these incredible archives: unpublished images, Polaroid prints, magazines, or catalogs. It all begins with his first photo taken at age 10: a print of his older sister in a ball gown, already emphasizing the importance of the model and the garment. "I am an artisan. I interpret dresses like a musician interprets a score", explains the Italian artist while presenting the exhibition. He plays with Dior, Comme des Garçons, or Yohji Yamamoto, in short, Paolo Roversi is an acknowledged fashion photographer, fond of clothing and models. For this reason, he presents his shots as dual portraits: that of the garment and that of the model.

And what muses! Kate Moss, Natalia Vodianova, Naomi Campbell, Guinevere van Seenus, Amber Valletta, Inès de la Fressange have all posed in front of Paolo Roversi's lens, often nude as evidenced by his Nudi series. Roversi questions the bodies of the models by having them pose in the same way: against a white background, facing forward, full-length, entirely naked and without any artifice. They are natural, impressive, and above all, unique.

 

The craftsman of light

"One must feel the light", Paolo Roversi warns passionately. The master knows how to control light to capture his unique portraits, recognizable among all. He first worked in the darkroom of his studio, shielded from daylight by immense curtains. The exhibition's journey begins in the same way with photographs taken in this darkroom - like the catalog of Yohji Yamamoto's winter 1985-1986 collection -, then with shots taken with a Polaroid under the light of a flashlight, a process that would become his signature. The result? A world of darkness and light in which faces are imperceptible, almost ethereal, dissolving into black or white.

Paolo Roversi continues to innovate, gradually allowing natural light into his works. Heavily inspired by Nadar's work, Roversi recreates the same codes as the French photographer, now working under immense glass roofs in a studio bathed in daylight. With this new technique, his models become ghostly, like those of Nadar, as if they came from another world, as seen in the grand portrait Natalia (2003). By unveiling all these portraits, Palais Galliera takes us on an unmissable poetic journey into Paolo Roversi's fantastical dimension.

Paolo Roversi until July 14th at Palais Galliera. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Late opening until 9 pm on Thursdays.

Molly, Chanel, Vogue Italia, Paris, 2015 © Paolo Roversi

Anna, Comme des Garçons, Tokyo 2016 © Paolo Roversi

Natalia, Paris, 2003 © Paolo Roversi

And also...

Paris is buzzing with excitement! From July 26th to August 11th, 2024, the capital will host the 132nd edition of the Olympic and Paralympic Games, bringing together the greatest athletes from around the world. As part of the Cultural Olympiad Paris 2024 programming, the latest exhibition at Palais Galliera, Fashion in Motion, precisely retraces the history of "sportswear" from the 18th century to the present day, while exploring the relationship between clothing and the emancipation of the female body. From the first Amazonian outfits to the jersey of the french soccer team, Les Bleus, we delve into the secrets of fashion designed for sweating!

 

Liberating Fashion for Moving Bodies

Immersed in an intimate and minimalist chiaroscuro, visitors embark on a fascinating journey through time, showcasing nearly 200 pieces dedicated to physical activity and, more broadly, the liberation of the female body. With a significant focus on the democratization of women's sports, we meet Princess Murat, an outstanding rider in the 14th-century aristocracy, before being amused by the scandal of the first bikini by Jacques Heim and admiring vintage Courrèges suits for winter sports.

Fashion in Motion thus examines the specialization of sports clothing, the adaptation of women's attire for physical activities, the evolution of women's fashion towards a more masculine aesthetic, and even the introduction of sportswear into modern wardrobes. From cycling outfits to tennis ensembles, fencing uniforms, and sneakers, each iconic piece showcased illustrates the evolution of mentalities and beauty standards through physical activity.

 

Exceptional Pieces to Discover in 3 Stages

To enrich its collection, Palais Galliera has had the privilege of receiving exceptional loans from the Nice National Museum of Sports, the Forney Library in Paris, the Chanel Heritage, the Emile Hermès collection, as well as Sonia Rykiel and Yohji Yamamoto houses. To preserve these archival treasures effectively, this monumental exhibition will be presented in three successive installations until 2025, with five-week closure periods, offering a renewed experience of the exhibition to be rediscovered time and time again.

Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of Paris, 10 Avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, Paris 16th. From June 16th, 2023, until September 7th, 2025. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., with late-night openings until 9:00 p.m. on Thursdays. Online reservations available.

© Peter Knapp © Pierre Antoine, © Palais Galliera

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