The soul food cantina we were dreaming of

The SOUL FOOD phenomenon has landed in Paris ! What’s it all about ? “Cuisine with soul”, straight from the US of A, stemming from old Afro-American traditions. Left by the wayside for a long time, it is back in the spotlight, served in the trendy cantinas of Harlem and now Niébé, the new hot address of Vavin.

Right from the start, the decor and the cool staff lead us into a real small and colourful family style house with a big skylight and a buttercup wall. Orchestrated by Rosilène Vitorino (ex-chef at the Embassy of Brazil), the feelgood menu follows mixing African, Creole and Brazilian cuisines.

Starters feature an assortment of mini nuggets and cromesquis of tapioca, veggies, manioc (8€), or a fab ceviche on a bed of coriander pesto (12€). To be washed down of course with a traditional juice of bissap (6€) or a zinging caïpirinha (10€).

Daily dishes include a wonderful grilled seabass with mashed plantain bananas, coconut milk and spices. Very special kudos to their grilled marinated picanha, this braised beef qui that melts in the mouth, served with its herb sauce (lunch menu from 18€ to 24€). For dessert, an unforgettable “small cake” with goyave and sorbet cheese (9€).

The added plus? The clever idea of a double menu in classic or vegan version. All the stars of soul food such as feijoada (20€), mafé of beef (19€) or the bobó of camarão (shrimp with coconut milk, 23€) are reinterpreted with tofu, seitan or vegetal cheese. In short, the ideal place to take your picky veggie girlfriend who never eats anything.

 

Open Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 3pm and from 7:30 to midnight. Special buffet Saturday at lunchtime.

Also discover Uma Nota, the new spot for a Rio-style ambiance.

© Julie Limont

Clémence Renoux

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