When the need for an escape becomes pressing and the desire for a true digital detox takes over, Île de Ré offers that rare extra soul that makes us desperately want to move there! But what exactly is happening on the other side of the bridge from La Rochelle? We put on our best beachwear looks to uncover the most desirable addresses of the moment. Focus on Saint-Martin-de-Ré, its liveliest spot, for a weekend to recharge and breathe in the iodine-rich air. Shall we take you there ?
For a Dinner Facing the Harbor
When a local institution is taken over by a Parisian chef and his wife, naturally, all the locals are talking about it. Philippe and Marie Tredgeu settled in Saint-Martin-de-Ré after falling in love with this house that had been closed for several years. And since its reopening, Le Serghi has regained what you expect from a truly great restaurant: a soul, an energy, a view, and that rare feeling that everyone is having a good time. Located on the quieter part of the harbor, the terrace offers without hesitation one of the most beautiful views of Saint-Martin. In the evening, when the sun sets over the boats, the scenery becomes almost unreal. Inside? Wooden floor, original bar, visible bottles, cozy banquettes, soft lighting, open kitchen behind the glass wall… and even a private lounge upstairs, perfect for large birthday gatherings.
At aperitif time, we toast with a well-chilled cocktail like the Green Day (tequila, mezcal, St-Germain, kiwi, cucumber, coriander, €14), then on to the horse mackerel crudo, coconut milk, mango, and green apple (€12), the pea velouté, crispy soft-boiled egg (€13), the fish from the auction, vegetables, bouillabaisse, and citrus condiment (€29) to honor the nearby harbor. We follow with a saffron risotto, green asparagus and stracciatella (€27) or a Black Angus bavette, divine pepper sauce and homemade fries (€28). And if there's one rule here, it's that you cannot leave without tasting the vanilla rice pudding, salted butter caramel and granola (€12), the house's signature dessert, unless you fall for the little choux pastries whose praline might just haunt you all summer (€12).
Le Serghi, 15 quai Georges Clemenceau, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré. Open Wednesday to Monday, 12pm–2pm and 7pm–9:30pm. Closed Tuesday. Online reservations.
For a Refined Stay
When the island is this beautiful, the desire to settle into a hotel that matches it arises. Head to Hôtel de Toiras, an iconic address in Saint-Martin-de-Ré housed in a former shipowner's mansion facing the harbor. Behind its recognizable pale facade, the island's first 5-star hotel plays the card of discreet luxury in a family home style with vintage furniture and attention to detail. Once through the door, time slows down: you cross cozy lounges, glimpse ancient stones, woodwork, soft fabrics, before reaching rooms all different, inspired by figures linked to the region. A rich decor, certainly, but full of charm, where you spend your time admiring the details as much as the view of the harbor.
At the table, head to George's, its gastronomic restaurant in navy blue, white, and wood tones. On the plate, Chef Ronan Fillatre imagines a cuisine between ocean and plant with a 4-course menu (€95): green asparagus, basil sabayon and rhubarb, catch of the day with sea herbs, fresh goat cheese with honey (memorable), then red berries, tarragon, and rhubarb as a final touch. All accompanied by a beautiful wine list, crafted with the expertise of Éric Beaumard. A chic address but never stuffy, perfect for experiencing the island in grand evening mode.
Hôtel de Toiras et Le George’s, 33 avenue Victor Bouthillier, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré. 05 46 35 40 32. Rooms from €240.
For Hunting Beautiful Decor
In Saint-Martin-de-Ré, sometimes you just need to leave the busiest streets to stumble upon a true gem. Near the ramparts, Le Magasin de la République intrigues with its history-laden name and timeless allure. Originally called "Magasin du Roi," the place owes its name to the French Revolution: the inscription above the door has remained, like a trace of the past. Born at the end of the 17th century, this building once housed the weapons of the Crown and the French army, at the heart of the fortifications of Saint-Martin designed by Vauban. Several centuries later, in 1985, the grandparents of the current owners bought this amazing place to turn it into an antique shop. Since then, you can browse vintage armchairs, antique dressers, rugs, and other unusual objects. Here, the decor lives to the rhythm of arrivals, purchases, and favorites you take home with you.
Top tip: from spending so much time sensing the spirit of the times, the son has just added a very promising coffee shop. On the menu, items you won't find elsewhere on the island: matcha latte (€6), iced coffee (€5), kombucha (€4.90)... For snacks, the twist is unexpected but delicious: the family having lived in Morocco for a few years, the pastries have oriental accents, including baklava with almonds (€1.50) and gazelle horns (€2). Beware of addiction!
Magasin de La République, 30 rue Aristide Briand, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré. Open every day 10am–1pm and 3pm–7pm, closes Friday at 6pm. 05 46 09 40 97.
For a Restful Escape
Villa Clarisse, the sister property of Hôtel de Toiras, a few steps from the harbor but already far from its bustle, offers a total and welcome disconnection. From the alleyway, you sense that something is hiding behind its walls: fewer rooms, a family home atmosphere, a more sober decor where white dominates, and spacious rooms designed as refuges. From the outside, it's impossible to imagine the wonder of the garden hidden within: a bucolic, silent, almost secret haven, where you quickly forget the rest of the island. A little parenthesis out of time with a heated pool, where you naturally savor your breakfast.
On the spa side, the experience continues gently by treating yourself to an Olivier Claire treatment, 100% made in France, in the house's wellness area. Our favorite? The "Ma Première Balade" treatment (30 min, €80), a soothing massage that invites you to slow down. Here, no need to watch the clock anymore: life gently pauses.
La Villa Clarisse, 5 rue du Général Lapasset, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré. 05 46 68 43 00. Rooms from €360 in low season.
For a Seafood Feast
Île de Ré means seafood, obviously. And what better setting to enjoy it than a table with your feet in the water? At La Cabane Océane, the oyster is queen, and a whole story is told on the plate. Since 1999, the family has been raising its oysters on the island, refining them for several weeks, then serving them at the peak of freshness. The locals have figured out the address: some cross the island just to leave with their oysters under their arm. For the rest of us, all that's left is to sit down and enjoy the show.
On the plate? The natural oysters first, unmissable (€9.50 for 6) but also the house-marinated oysters with cucumber, shallot, lemon, and olive oil (€6 for 3), to be paired of course with the island's white wine, Domaine du Pelletier (€27). Next: pink shrimp and their homemade mayo (€15 for 8), whelks in the same vein (€10.50), and the pan-fried clamswith garlic parsley butter (€19) that you inevitably end up mopping up with bread: perfection. Special mention to the meagre rillettes (€12), truly stunning. We finish fresh with an artisanal ice cream from Ernest, the reference in La Rochelle (€3).
La Cabane Océane, 9 Rte du Praud, 17630 La Flotte. Open Thursday to Tuesday, 10am–6pm. Closed Wednesday.
For Taking Time to Live the Island
Impossible to claim you've truly experienced Île de Ré without hopping on a bike. Here, two-wheelers are part of the scenery as much as the white houses and green shutters. You ride along the ramparts of Saint-Martin, glide peacefully through the alleys, before pushing on to the salt marshes for the more motivated. Rentals available on-site and online.
After watching the boats from the harbor for so long, the urge to set sail becomes irresistible. Interîles offers a 2-hour catamaran ride at sunset (€47 per person): the kind of moment to experience at least once to see the coast differently, from the sea.
Finally, impossible to wrap up the trip without giving in to an ice cream from La Martinière, the sweet institution of the island whose line sometimes seems to swallow the entire harbor. You wait, you watch the boats, you hesitate for a long time in front of the display… before cracking for a scoop with some surprising flavors like oyster and Ré potato (€3). 17 quai de la Poithevinière, 17 quai de la Poithevinière, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré,
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