The 10th arrondissement just keeps giving us new spots we almost want to keep to ourselves! Proof of that: Niní is already one of our favourite discoveries of the year. Set on a peaceful street, this bistro with an Italian accent has everything we love in a hidden gem worth recommending. Let’s take a look!
Generosity at every level
Near the Canal Saint-Martin, Niní makes the most of the daylight thanks to its large windows, making it just as appealing for lunch as it is in the evening, when the atmosphere becomes softer. Inside, exposed red brick meets the dark wood of the bar and furniture, while the red tiled floor gives the place all its charm. There is also a small, more intimate terrace, far from the noise of overcrowded Parisian terraces: honestly, we never wanted to leave!
Behind this tender name often given to children, Victor Kalczuga sets the tone in the dining room, while Fabio Massimo Liuzza brings his Roman roots to life in the kitchen. Together, they have created a place driven by generous plates, full of character, and that immediate feeling of having found somewhere you will want to return to again and again — and judging by the regulars seated nearby, we clearly were not the only ones!
On the plate, Niní reveals a well-thought-out French-Italian cuisine, with just the right touch of modernity. To start, the focaccia with sheep’s ricotta and scapece-style courgettes wins over our demanding palates thanks to its incomparable softness (€12). The same goes for the vitello tonnato with capers (€12), finely sliced just the way we like it. For the mains, the fettuccine with vignarola romana and pecorino arrive beautifully creamy (€23), while the pork spider schnitzel gets a welcome burst of freshness from its salsa verde and a generous dose of watercress (€27). For dessert, we remember the strawberries with Isigny crème fraîche, saba and shiso, fresh and light (€9), as well as the tiramisu-style brioche perdue, which proves very hard to share when every spoonful is this good (€11)! A flawless experience that makes us want to come back illico presto.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 11:45 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 11:45 p.m.
© Eric Sutter
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