We only talk about them since their award for best table of the year by Le Fooding . About 45km from Paris, in the heart of the grounds of the Château de Saint-Vrain in Essonne , Australian chef James Henry ( Au Passage , Bones ) and his mate Shaun Kelly are a hit at Le Doyenné, their breathtaking house-table d'hôte in the farm-to-table spirit. Verdict? Bomb, baby.
The return of the cool kids of Parisian bistronomy
When the dark and charismatic James Henry teases his farm-to-table hot spot in the Paris region on Insta with photos of vegetable gardens under construction, the local gastrosphere panics. Even before its opening, Le Doyenné became the go-to HQ for Parisians in search of rustic airs and revolutionary dishes, for a long lunch or a night in the countryside within the confines of the Château de Saint-Vrain…
An extraordinary place
Under the leadership of the duo and the Cïgue studio , the former stables of the castle, having once hosted Niki de Saint-Phalle's studio , are transformed into an ultra-sexy barn. Vertiginous framework, high-caliber open kitchen from which proudly stand the flames of the wood fire, 60's fireplace corner, wooden half-moon benches and, of course, glass roof all along with breathtaking views of the vegetable garden.
And because it's too good to stop on such a good path, why not treat yourself to the maxi maxi kif: the night in a guest house for a timeless break... The breakfast the next day, with full products made in Le Doyenné are worth it, askip, the detour!
The taste of pure and true
The plate, less casual than during the Parisian days of the duo, is today of rare legibility, allowing the product to express itself in all its splendor. A pure ode to nature revealing the subtleties and strengths of the seasons through the grace of French techniques. This Saturday lunchtime, in the long lunch menu at €95, winter will rarely have had such a cuddly taste!
Beginnings in 5 acts with charcuterie from family pigs in a ventrèche style sending very heavy, barbajuans with super-delicate spinach, surprise brioche rounded with black pudding, scallops in the undergrowth dabbling in a mushroom jus infused with kombu and most photogenic dish of the year: raw vegetables from the garden…
Slaps and hugs on the plate
When the line-caught ikejime bass pulsed with radish, citrus juice and raw citron wakes up, the grilled squid , chanterelle mushrooms stewed in squid ink capturing the essence of the wood fire, is as cocooning as a sofa session. -plaid at the corner of the fireplace…
As a piece of sharing, the veal chop from the Basque Country is teamed up with héliantis and anchovies, fried capers, powerful juice and pistachio condiment for the burst before a millefeuille with candied apple and chestnut and Calvados sabayon, mega regressive!
At maximum nature , the wine list oscillates between great references straight in their boots and assumed funkitudes, enough to twist! Don't miss it, under the advice of Straight from the best restaurants in Copenhagen : the Italian pet nat' from Azienda Ombretta (bottle €48) or the rare Txakolina from the Basque Country by Imanol Garay (bottle €95).
Open Thursday and Friday evenings, Saturday non-stop from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. Evening menu from Thursday to Sunday: €95. Saturday lunch menu: €55 or €95.
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