Calcifer Heats Up the Marais with Its BBQ-Fired Cuisine

A striking interior, large tables perfect for group dinners, a highly affordable lunch menu, and flame-driven cooking: tucked away on Rue de Vertbois, Calcifer ticks all the right boxes. Here’s why this new spot deserves a place on your radar.

 

A Little Name-Dropping

No surprise the service and the food are on point. Behind Calcifer—whose name nods to the fire demon from Howl’s Moving Castle, instantly recognizable to Hayao Miyazaki fans—are two heavyweights of the Paris dining scene.

On one side, charismatic Big Boss Antoine Rollin, trained in excellence through stints at Espadon, Bistrot Flaubert, and L’Hémicycle, a favorite among politicians near the National Assembly. On the other, chef Gaetano Carpinelli, who honed his craft in the three-Michelin-star kitchens of La Réserve Paris and Maison Troisgros, as well as with Giovanni Passerini. Not bad at all.

Together, this seasoned duo delivers a thoroughly modern address where the setting is just as appealing as the plate: diner-style booths for groups of four, an open kitchen overlooking large communal tables, and a bright, spacious dining room made for long, leisurely lunches.

 

Playing with Fire

“You’ll see, I’ll grill your bacon,” jokes Calcifer in the Ghibli classic. In the kitchen, the chef’s barbecue takes over—charring everything in its path. To start, green asparagus hits the grill, served with a fried egg, garlic, and hazelnuts (€16), alongside langoustines with brown butter and lime (€20).

Next up: a stunning whole turbot, presented on a platter and bathed in a rich pil pil sauce, served with flame-kissed smoked lettuce (€11 per 100g, perfect for sharing).

The weekly changing menu showcases Antoine and Gaetano’s travel-inspired influences, with a strong nod to the Basque Country and its iconic asado: chicharrón with sriracha sauce, fava beans, and citron (€8); cochinillo (suckling pig) with salsa roja (€80, to share); txuleta (Basque-style rib steak) aged for 30 days with grilled vegetables (€110, to share). And for dessert, possibly the best tarta de queso (Basque cheesecake) you’ll ever taste (€10).

Worth noting: the seriously good-value lunch menu (starter, main, dessert) at €34—more than enough reason to come back again.

Open Wednesday to Sunday, for lunch and dinner.
© Maelle Saliou

Also check out Orson, the new hotspot in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and 8 great spots for lunch under €30.

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