The new Michelin-starred restaurants to try in Paris

Etoiles Michelin 2023

At the forefront of discovering the most promising chefs in the French gastronomic scene, Michelin rewarded a series of exceptional tables on March 18th. We were present at the ceremony and have prepared our shortlist of starred restaurants and chefs that have won over the hearts of our editorial team, a must-try.


Eugénie Béziat - Espadon at the Ritz Paris

To take over the reins of its iconic restaurant, the Ritz Paris gave carte blanche to a chef relatively unknown to the general public, who previously worked at La Roya in Corsica and at Michel Sarran's. Born in Libreville and spending 20 years in Africa, notably in Gabon and Ivory Coast, Eugénie Béziat offers a clear, sharp, and readable approach. With full confidence from the Ritz, the chef boldly embraces her cuisine inspired by both continents, showcasing astonishing combinations (always brilliantly executed). Lobster / cassava / hibiscus, oyster / wild pepper / fresh cheese, tomato / rosemary / grapefruit, all captured through clever cooking techniques for an unprecedented result. Boldly, the chef finally presents her gastronomic version of the yassa chicken from her childhood: a seductive Houdan chicken and its soft black onion. To bridge the gap to dessert, Ritz pastry chef François Perret continues a harmonious collaboration with a honey almond orange honeycomb cake and a crunchy chocolate soufflé, enhanced with kororima seed. Menus starting from €290.

Espadon at the Ritz, 5 Place Vendôme, Paris 1st. Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 7pm to 9pm.

© Emanuela Cino ©Studio PAM


Maxime Bouttier - Géosmine

For one of the few gourmet tables around the Canal Saint-Martin, chef Maxime Bouttier (formerly of Mensae) pays homage to nature with products from his region of Le Mans, twisted according to the seasons and arrivals. In a setting that breathes, much like what's on the plate, this restaurant is designed like a country house in the city. The concept? A carte blanche dinner in 8 or 11 courses of your choice, à la carte for lunch. His graphic and colorful dishes revisit forgotten flavors of yesteryear such as... cow udder with caviar. There are also daring compositions like crispy meatball-style rillettes as an appetizer and lamb brain in crust that echo the chef's origins in Sarthe, with a special mention for delicate flowered eel tartlets. The journey continues with crispy roasted asparagus with hints of pistachio, tarragon, and wild garlic, toasted scallops or seasonal mushrooms stuffed with meat that melt in the mouth, accompanied by peas. A delight.

Géosmine, 71 Rue de la Folie Méricourt, Paris 11th. Open on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, and Wednesday to Saturday evenings. From €11 to €49 for lunch. Evening menu starting from €109.

© Laurent Dupont et Delphine Constantini 


Matan Zaken - Nhome

Having worked in the kitchens of Grégory Marchand, Christian Le Squer, and Sven Chartier (quite a resume!) before starting his own venture to cook at Paris's most glamorous fashion events (Givenchy, Dior, Alaïa...), chef Matan Zaken had always dreamed of a gourmet restaurant where all chefs would be highlighted to present a blind menu, changing according to market arrivals. This is now a reality with Nhome, a small basement gem whose interior is revealed from the street... Each chef takes turns to bring a plate (and what plates: just look at those incredible ceramics): smoked eel, foie gras, onion broth and Tokyo turnip, asparagus with Kombu seaweed and wild garlic, blue lobster artichoke, pistachio, and Buddha's hand... It's hard to rank preferences as each dish competes in delicacy. Without noticing the time pass, the dessert arrives to dive a spoon into a highly regressive bowl of puffed and roasted cereals ("This one, we can't take it off the menu", laughs pastry chef Clémence Lafleur). Conclusion: bets are on for a star next year. Dare to try?

Nhome, 41 Rue de Montpensier, Paris 1st. Open Monday to Friday from 7pm to 9:30pm, and Friday from 12:30pm to 2:30pm. Unique menu €115, wine pairing €65.

©Pierre Lucet-Penato


Flavio Lucarini - Hémicycle

It's quite rare to be surprised in a restaurant that ventures so far off the beaten path. Because steps away from the National Assembly, in an ultra-luxurious setting of marble, leather, wood, and travertine, the new table Hémicycle declines the temptation of classicism on the plate to lean towards audacity. Hungry deputies finally have an extraordinary nearby address that stands out, without disrupting the codes of excellence. Since its open kitchen, young Italian chef Flavio Lucarini (formerly of Bistrot Flaubert) plays with acidity, the condiment that awakens at the back of the mouth, the secret sauce hidden underneath. While dishes are also available à la carte, we advise the curious to first venture into the €85 four-course menu. There's a lot going on in there: smoked beetroot in raviolo and whey sauce, white asparagus and cod tripe, barbecue mackerel and lettuce patties with licorice, lamb saddle with pistachio bergamot sauce... Food 3.0 enthusiasts rejoice, praising the chef's boldness and superb color harmony. A tip: reserve the high tables facing the brigade for a total immersion. On the sweet side, surprise! It's the chef's sweetheart, the talented Aurora Storari (also honored with a Michelin award, "Passion Dessert"), who unfolds a surprising yet comforting composition: steamy white with blackcurrant pepper, roasted Jerusalem artichoke soufflé. We want more!

Hémicycle, 5 Rue de Bourgogne, Paris 7th. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 12pm to 1:30pm and 7:30pm to 9:30pm.



Jérôme Banctel - Le Gabriel in La Réserve Paris

Have you heard of Paris' most intimate palace? Situated directly across from the Élysée Palace, La Réserve is home to the extraordinary Le Gabriel, now adorned with three Michelin stars under the guidance of Jérôme Banctel. Influenced by his Breton heritage, evidenced by his dedication to marrying land and sea flavors harmoniously, and his love for Japanese gastronomy, the chef celebrates excellence within these walls. At Le Gabriel, indulge in a lunch menu priced at €98, featuring delights such as miso-marinated salmon, curry celery, Louvigné pigeon, and spice-infused turnip candy, culminating in the iconic vanilla pod, Woodford Reserve baba. For an evening to remember, opt for the €278 "Virée" menu, unveiling meticulously crafted creations with bold flavors, such as buttermilk poultry, Kig Ha Farz with white asparagus, or mackerel on a pebble, accompanied by poutargue, sea urchin, and samphire. The recognition of this establishment was eagerly anticipated within culinary circles, and the atmosphere was electric as the genius chef took the stage, joining his peers amidst thunderous applause. It's an experience to cherish for a lifetime, ensuring you can proudly declare, "I was there".

Le Gabriel at La Réserve Paris, located at 42 Avenue Gabriel, Paris 8th. Open Monday to Friday from 12:30 PM to 1:30 PM and 7:30 PM to 9:30 PM.

@Grégoire Gardette

© GeraldineMartens


And also...

True safe bets ensuring an extraordinary culinary experience, these three tables have just been awarded their first star:

  • Onor : Chef extraordinaire Thierry Marx inaugurated a unique place last year as an extension of his ecological and solidarity commitments, combining the know-how of his Cuisine Mode d'Emploi(s) schools and his taste for molecular cuisine. 258 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8th. Menu starting from €80.
  • Galanga : In the sublime Monsieur George hotel, chef Thomas Danigo made his whole team happy! His mission? Explore the plant world and visit all its flavors. 17 Rue Washington, Paris 8th. Menu starting from €115.
  • Sushi Yoshinaga: An authentic rock star among sushi masters, chef Tomoyuki Yoshinaga masters the art of working with remarkable fish in a micro room that can accommodate 10 guests. A must of its kind... 27 Rue du 4 Septembre, Paris 2nd. Unique menu at €330.

@Leo Kharfan / @Mathilde de l'Ecotais / ©11h45

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