We thought he had finished surprising us since Bagnard , his Mediterranean street food canteen in the Marais (and editorial headquarters) which sells the best pan-bagnat in the capital.
Former Top Chef Yoni Saada (finally) comes out of his lair to take possession of the kitchens of the Hôtel de Nell , a prestigious 5-star establishment a stone's throw from the Grands Boulevards . Book quickly with a bunch of girlfriends who swear by Israeli cuisine.
Plates to share
We will quickly move on to the decor, not yet finished but which takes up in a fairly classic way the codes of contemporary oriental tables. Here, it is the cuisine of Yoni Saada that stands out in the daring association of products that create frankly new tastes, from hummus with praline to mash with seaweed and surprising spices.
The must ? Order the maximum of finger food and starters to share everything with your table, using the principle of your first Miniatures restaurant (now closed): phenicia like a pissaladière (€ 10), insane pita bread (€ 2.50), lacquered gravelax salmon with beetroot (€ 12), carcioffi alla giudia (€ 16), marrow crostini (€ 14), a torrid manchego truffle pita (€ 16) or even an almond labné dukah (€ 8).
The great classics of Jewish cuisine
For big appetites: the shoulder of lamb to share (€ 86 for 3-4 people), linguine with vongole and harissa with rose (€ 19) or chicken panko schnitzel and full-bodied zaatar jus (24 €), toasting with a good bottle from the selection of natural wines prepared by the brilliant sommelier.
Last advice: save some room for the devilishly regressive desserts with the famous achta ice cream and grilled pistachios from Bachir (€ 9) but also caramel orange blossom / nocciolata churros (€ 7) and roasted figs / ice cream. Bachir blackberry flavored with Kréma candy (€ 12).
Phénice , 9 rue du Conservatoire, Paris 9th