A real food obsession of the moment surfing full blast in Tel Aviv, the babka, popularized by Salatim, is a little like the madeleine of Proust ashkenazi style, which Parisians are wild about. And needless to say the opening in the 9th of Babka Zana—the very first bakery dedicated to this brioche—is creating the buzz.
All in the family
No good babka without a Jewish mamma in the story. Once upon a time there was… a couple of foodies : Sarah Amouyal and Emmanuel Murat, the son, how about that…of the famous Andrée Zana Murat,author of the gourmet bible: Tunisian Jewish cuisine.
And since it’s a family story, the decor was created by designer Charles Zana (architect for David Mallett or the Hôtel Crillon Le brave) who imagined an open oven to ensure the show.
To crown the adventure, the best baker in Paris, aka Benoît Castel, worked on the recipe. The result is spectacular.
Presented in different shapes and savours, it turns out to be powerfully beautiful in an individual version with halva lemon, cinnamon. Cherry on the cake: the splendid pistaccio-orange blossom (€3.20 ). Its offshoot with À la Mère de Famille spread is irresistible (€11 for a big brioche or €22 the XXL family format). The new must-eat for a brunch.
Another discovery: the small rugelach (€0.70), a mini chocolate-cannelle croissant totally addictive whose Parisian notoriety explodes thanks to Insta.
The other house specialty, are the incredible sandwiches the bosses really care about.The börek with hallah bread, clearly inspired from Israeli street food, a killer. Just like the Reuben with pastrami,honey mustard, red cabbage and pickle, the incredible tuna-mayo or the veggie stuffed with cabbage and potato, along with a lemon mayo and pickled onions (€8).
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 8am to 6pm and Sunday until 1pm.
Babka Zana, 65, Rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris