Already at the helm of Fables de la Fontaine, the chic and iodine-filled table on Rue Saint-Dominique, David Bottreau does it again on the sidewalk right across the street with Le Comptoir des Fables. Two restaurants, two ambiances. While the first one owes its reputation to its star, which meanwhile has gone, the newcomer claims a free spirit of sharing, resolutely low-key.
A contemporary annex open 7/7
With the help of architect Luis Alelui, David Bottreau has transformed the butcher shop across from his first venue into a modern annex for epicurean urbanites. Solos can take advantage of the counter, while others make hurry to sit down on the leather banquette or wooden chairs installed around tables in green marble from Portugal. The story of the Comptoir des Fables has just begun
A mix and match food offer
Raw or cooked, meat or fish, top notch charcuterie and lots of veggie options. Having worked at the George V and Le Fitzgerald, young chef Guillaume Dehecq unrolls four to five propositions in each category—just take your pick.
In the middle of the table arrives a DIY guacamole (who will take over?), €8), a steamed bass pimped with miso (€9), quinoa salad, gravlax salmon and mango (€10), frogs legs to dip in mashed potatoes, nuggets of beef with Pont Neuf potatoes (€10.50). Special kudos for the presunto, Portuguese pata negra ham, 18 or 40 months of refining, an exclusivity in Paris (€14-25).
As for desserts, Anastasia, the cheffe of Fables de la Fontaine has whipped up a double sweet treat. At the Comptoir, she serves a heavy duty tonka peanut millefeuille(€8.50), a chocolate hazelnut madeleine (€8) and a XXL pink praline brioche to be covered with a blackberry topping (€7).
Wiens or cocktails, no need to choose
And there is good news for all those who enjoy pretty liquids,Le Comptoir des Fables will not let you go thirsty! The wine cellar, 80% organic, is the secret garden of dining room manager Romain Calvo, who admits favouring the South West. To be noted, the presence of 20 wines by the glass (starting at €4).
Talented mixoligist, Marc Cottinsigns cocktails as spectacular as they are tasty on a base of pisco, tequila or mezcal (€8-12).
Morale of the story? Nothing is gained by waiting, you must race over to the Comptoir des Fables.
Open every day. ©Philippe Schaff