Some places just guarantee a good night. At the head of Babi, a brand-new pocket-sized restaurant set on the ultra-trendy rue Mandar, are two hyper-motivated twenty-somethings whose enthusiasm perfectly matches their talent. Here’s a look at a cool dinner filled with surprises and good vibes.
The new guard of good taste
Don’t be fooled by their baby faces — these two know exactly what they’re doing. Jérémie Taché (in the dining room) and Néo Guerin (in the kitchen) met while working at Shabour and Tékés. From these experiences, they kept the warmth of joyful shared plates and a good dose of humor within the team. The setting fits the spirit — intimate and raw(just about thirty seats), with exposed stone walls, granite, and cozy two-person banquettes. The best seats? At the counter, of course — only 10 spots facing the kitchen, perfect to join in on the fun happening around the chef. First come, first served!
Energy in the plate and the glass
There are only 14 dishes (including amuse-bouches and desserts) on Babi’s concise menu. Following Jérémie’s advice, we go for Figuiny, a creation around fig and camembert, enhanced with a cider emulsion (€18), to scoop up with a fried pita that’s simply mind-blowing (€9). Next, the Ceviche Olé Olé, with its fragrant acquaverde sauce and the bold touch of fish milt, adds a surprising iodized flavor (€19) just before the silky wild lobster tortellini with pastis and fennel (€34). A must-try: the pork belly slow-cooked for 36 hours, incredibly tender, paired with red miso and watercress (€24).
“We don’t really know much about desserts, so we just imagined the ones we’d love to eat,” the two friends tell us. Naturally, the babka perdue (€14) and the fraise foraine churros-style “We had to make the most of the fryer!” (€16) are as playful as they are nostalgic, topped respectively with ice cream and cotton candy. Since everyone’s having fun here, our appetite is too.
Nota bene: with a real knack for sommelier work, Jérémie serves true international gems like the Argentinian white Colomé Torrontés (glass €8) and a brilliant Armenian sparkling wine Keush Origine, a name to remember (€12).
Babi Restaurant, 11 rue Mandar, Paris 2nd arrondissement. Open Tuesday to Saturday, evenings only (7 p.m.–12 a.m.).
Also discover: The new coffee shops that caught our eye and The most coveted restaurants of Fashion Week.
