It's not just the plancha in life. Top Chef addicts have noticed that, like the beautiful locavore product , the cooking techniques (from the most old school to the most eccentric) benefit from an unprecedented hype which attracts curious foodies. Under the leadership of Stéphane Manigold , assistant chef to Matthias Marc at Substance , the new Braise restaurant sets the (too) calm 8th district on fire with its alluring meats and fish.
Coming from the street, nice: the bird's eye view of the kitchens below, where you can see the scullions bustling about in front of their cooking stations. Japanese Binchotan , American-style “Big Green ” barbecue, grilling / smoking / roasting machines… A pass for the Salon de la Grillade? Almost. The interior decor of brick and leather, very dark but haloed by a large red neon on the ceiling, contextualizes a chic campfire , when the ambient aroma promises anti-boring plates.
First off, the sautéed squid , grilled eggplant and smoked tomato condiment (€18) stand out, followed by a confit of lamb bao and herbaceous sauce (€18). To continue, the red mullet cooked in hay, artichoke à la barigoule, smoked eel and black garlic (€40) takes on the air of a holiday in the sun, while the grilled Aveyron lamb is sublimated by a white chive cooked on embers, onion and lemon condiment (€38).
Presented in the window on the mezzanine perfect for accommodating groups, we also choose matured pieces including a turbot, a rib of beef or a pork “ Tomahawk ” (a cutlet from the high), to accompany street corner potatoes and marrow bone condiment, flame rice/lemon/herbs or mashed potatoes with poultry fat.
Open Monday to Friday 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
© Ilya KAGAN @ilyafoodstories